Kayak Fish Finder Install
You’re gliding over a massive submerged brush pile you never knew existed. Your screen shows a cluster of arches holding tight to the structure. One cast, one twitch of your jig, and your rod loads up. That’s the power of a fish finder on a kayak. It turns guesswork into a game plan. But the thought of drilling into your prized plastic hull? That’s enough to make any angler hesitate. Let’s fix that. I’ve installed dozens of these units on everything from rotomolded kayaks to high-end composites, and I’m here to guide you through a clean, secure, and reversible install.
Disclaimer: This guide is for informational purposes. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific kayak and electronics. Ensure your installation does not compromise the hull’s integrity or your safety. You are responsible for knowing and adhering to all local boating and fishing regulations, including required safety equipment like a US Coast Guard-approved PFD, which you must wear at all times while on the water.
The “Why”: Reading the Bottom Like a Road Map
Think of your kayak fish finder as your underwater GPS and topographical map combined. Without it, you’re navigating a highway blindfolded. With it, you can see the exit ramps (drop-offs), rest stops (weed beds), and construction zones (rock piles) where fish congregate. The transducer sends out sound waves (like shouting into a canyon), and the unit listens for the echo. By interpreting that data, it paints a picture of the bottom composition, depth, and, most importantly, where the fish are holding. This isn’t cheating; it’s efficient hunting.
Safety & Legal Check: Before You Drill a Single Hole
Your first step isn’t with a drill—it’s with a checklist. A Personal Flotation Device (PFD) is non-negotiable; you must wear it. Check the weather forecast before every trip; a small craft advisory is a hard “no-go” for kayaks. Legally, you must have a valid fishing license for the state you are in. Regulations vary wildly, so it’s your duty to know the rules. For the most authoritative source, always check directly with your state’s agency. For example, anglers in Florida should consult the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) for the latest regulations. Finally, practice ethical angling. Handle fish with wet hands, use appropriate tackle to land them quickly, and consider catch-and-release for sustainable fisheries.
The Core Installation Guide: From Box to Water
Here’s my battle-tested process for a clean, reliable kayak fish finder install. We’ll focus on a common through-hull transducer cable run and a removable display mount.
Step 1: Dry Fit & Plan Your Run
Unpack everything. Sit in your kayak and mock-up where the display will go. It needs to be easily visible but not in your way for paddling or casting. Next, find a clear path from the display location to the stern where the transducer will go. Avoid areas where gear or your legs will snag the cables.

Step 2: Mounting the Transducer (The Heart of the System)
You have two main choices for plastic kayaks:
- Through-Hull (Inside the Hull): This is the most popular and protected method. You mount the transducer inside a water-filled “puck” or directly to the hull using marine sealant. The sound waves pass through the plastic. It’s safe from snags but can lose some sensitivity.
- Transom Mount (On the Stern): Less common on kayaks, this involves a bracket over the side. It offers the best performance but is vulnerable to damage and can catch weeds.
For a through-hull install: Clean the interior hull spot with rubbing alcohol. Use a thick, pliable marine sealant (like Marine GOOP) to create a “puck” or bed for the transducer. Press the transducer firmly into the sealant, ensuring no air bubbles are trapped between it and the hull. Let it cure fully for 24-48 hours.
Step 3: Running the Cables (Keep it Clean)
This is where patience pays off. You’ll likely need to drill a hole for a cable pass-through fitting. Choose a location in a rear compartment or an area that will stay dry. Use a marine-grade cable gland or a simple bulkhead connector. Seal it thoroughly with marine sealant on both sides. Use adhesive-backed cable clips or flexible conduit (split loom) to secure the cable along the inside of the hull, keeping it tidy and out of the way.
Step 4: Mounting the Display & Power
For the display, I strongly recommend a removable mount. A RAM® ball mount system or a track-mounted base allows you to take the unit off for security and charging. Mount the base securely using stainless steel hardware and seal any drill holes with marine sealant. For power, a small 12V lithium or sealed lead-acid battery stored in a dry bag or hatch is perfect. Use an in-line fuse holder close to the battery terminal for safety.
Gear Comparison: Budget-Conscious vs. Pro-Grade Install
| Component | Budget-Friendly Approach | Pro-Grade / Optimal Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Transducer Mount | Duct seal putty (reusable, no glue) or high-strength double-sided tape inside hull. | Marine sealant (e.g., Marine GOOP) for a permanent, water-tight through-hull bond. |
| Cable Management | Zip ties through existing scupper holes or accessory eyes. Use dielectric grease on connections. | Drill for a sealed cable gland. Use adhesive-backed clips and split loom conduit for a clean, protected run. |
| Display Mount | Suction cup mount (for smooth surfaces) or a simple bolt-through the console. | RAM® Ball Mount with short arm + track base or a Scotty® transducer arm system for full adjustability and removal. |
| Power Source | 8-10Ah sealed lead-acid battery in a plastic box. | Small 10Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery. Lighter, safer, longer lifespan. |
Real Talk: The Pros and Cons
Pros: You gain a monumental advantage in finding fish and understanding structure. It increases your catch rate and makes you a more efficient angler. You can navigate safely in deeper water and locate specific thermoclines where gamefish stack up.
Cons: It’s an added cost and complexity. The install requires time and careful work. There’s a risk of damaging your kayak if done incorrectly. The gear adds weight and requires battery management. Sometimes, too much data can lead to analysis paralysis—don’t forget to just fish!
Kayak Fish Finder FAQ
Q: Will mounting the transducer inside the hull really work?
A: Yes, exceptionally well for most fishing. You sacrifice a small amount of detail at very high speeds (which you don’t have in a kayak) and side imaging clarity, but for 2D sonar and down imaging, it’s fantastic and fully protected.
Q: What’s the one tool I shouldn’t skip?
A> A good quality marine sealant. Don’t use silicone. Use a polyurethane or specialty marine adhesive sealant designed for plastic hulls. It’s the insurance policy for your install.
Q: How do I protect my electronics when I’m not on the water?
A> Make the display removable! A quick-disconnect ball mount lets you pop the unit off and store it with your battery in a safe, dry place. This also deters theft.
Installing a fish finder on your fishing kayak is a rite of passage. It transforms your craft from a simple paddle vessel into a serious fishing machine. Take your time, plan your run, seal everything twice, and you’ll be rewarded with years of pinpoint angling. Now, get that rig ready, check those regulations, and go put those new eyes to work on the water.
Looking for more ways to rig your kayak? Explore our other guides on kayak anchor systems and the best handheld GPS units for anglers to complete your setup.